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McNamara’s Irish Pub, Tennessee Reviewed.

In towns across Ireland, the local pub is the community's hub: the gathering place for good eats, strong drink and craic. A Gaelic term meaning more than just fun, craic (pronounced crack) is that intangible thing that happens when people meet to raise a glass, banter and laugh. It's a convivial vibe that banishes seriousness and fosters camaraderie. Good times are had by all.

Celtic musician Sean McNamara and his Irish-born wife, Paula, understand which elements must converge to create great craic. At their family-named spot on Old Lebanon Road, they have transformed a house to replicate the Irish pub experience.

There are cozy cottage-like rooms for dining and a "snug bar" with barrels of Jameson embedded in the wall. Upstairs is the sports bar, Emerald Isle-style, with dartboards, flat-screen televisions and football (soccer) jerseys pinned to the wall. But the main room is the most vibrant spot. There you'll find yet another bar, assorted tables filled with folks enjoying steak biscuits and ale, and a stage where house band Nosey Flynn plays. That's Sean's band, a talented trio that entertains with ballads and lively pint-banging tunes Thursday through Sunday nights.

There are choices aplenty to fill those pints. On tap, there's Guinness, Bass, Harp, Smithwicks and hard cider. Can't choose just one? Samples of suds are offered in Bushmill shot glasses. You can always count on a "pint of plain," the rich Guinness cascade of bubbles forming a smooth, creamy head. Or try a specialty draught. The Black and Tan is a skillful pour, dark stout magically floating atop pale ale. McNamara's has also assembled an extensive roster of Irish whiskeys, including such elites as Paddy's, Bushmill's Black Bush and 18-year-old Jameson.

The menu includes tasty pub grub, with some standouts and some need-for-improvements. A bowl of Molly Malone's Mussels, braised in Guinness, makes a fine start. Tender mollusks were served in broth studded with bits of garlic, shallots and green onion, a savory reduction of stout and butter that had our table wishing for more as we greedily sopped it up with slices of soda bread.

McNamara's fish-and-chips, made with cod, is an authentic take on the pub staple. Three fists of battered fish arrived hot, light and crisp, the beer-batter crust giving way to flaky fillet. It comes with small cups of ketchup and tartar sauce, but true fish-and chips wants malt vinegar. Accept your server's offer of a bottle and give it a vigorous shake over the plate. The malty tang enlivened not just the fish, but the accompanying side of slaw, too — fresh chopped cabbage in a mild, creamy dressing. The chips, however, were limp, and clearly needed a wee bit longer in the fryer.

The American Red Cross

You don't have to wait for St. Patrick's Day to enjoy the traditional corned beef. At McNamara's, it's a mainstay all the time. Their version features two narrow slabs of brined meat, lean, fork-tender and flavorful. If you like a daub of mustard with your beef, ask for the Creole; coarse-grained and spicy, it's the right complement to the meat. The braised cabbage was sweet and delicious, albeit a meager serving, lost amid boiled potatoes.

Bangers and Mash — sausages with mashed potatoes — is classic working man's fare. Pork is mixed with fine bread, creating a surprisingly delicate filling. McNamara's bangers come three to a plate and are grilled, the char encasing smooth-textured meat, hearty yet not heavy. The potatoes are mashed with the skins on and served next to, not under, the sausages. You have the choice of a side item, and we opted for fresh carrots and parsnips. They were served doused in butter, with the parsnips undercooked and still a little woody.

Indulge in an Irish coffee with dessert. The McNamara brew was full-bodied with a nice whiskey kick, a dangerously good pairing with the house-made Whiskey River Bread Pudding. Soft bread became supple and truly pudding-like, with bits of apple baked throughout. It was served warm with a delicious ribbon of whiskey sauce and a scoop of vanilla ice cream.

Service was attentive and friendly, with orders arriving at a proper pace. Overall, the welcoming nature of this family-run pub pervades. The music is grand, the pints are full. With a few culinary tweaks, the craic will be mighty!

This article was published on Tennessean.com on 30 April 2010. It was written by Nancy Vienneau, a chef and retired caterer. To view the article and for further information click here.

To view and write a review about McNamara's Irish Pub on Irish Beer Finder click here.

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